|
Wellesley
College Presidents
Grace Zia
Chu
Week of November 27, 2000
Grace
Zia Chu ’24 has been called the Julia Child of Chinese cooking.
In the 1950s, when very few Americans thought they could prepare
Chinese food in their own kitchens, she became a successful teacher
of Chinese home cooking. In 1962, she published The Pleasures
of Chinese Cooking; food critic Craig Claiborne wrote in The
New York Times " Book Review that it "may
well be the finest, most lucid volume on Chinese cooking ever written."
By 1976, Chu had published Madam Chu’s Cooking School and
had been named a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, an independent
New York chapter of Les Amies d’Escoffier, an international society
of culinary professionals.
How did a woman born in Shanghai in 1899, whose Wellesley major
was biology and who received the certificate of the Department of
Hygiene and Physical Education in 1925 evolve into a renowned cooking
teacher? The path was anything but direct. The "bossy big sister"
in a family of nine children, Chu graduated from Shanghai’s McTyeire
School for Girls and won a scholarship that enabled her to attend
Wellesley. She was 21 years old and an orphan when she arrived at
college.
In the
winter 1982 issue of Wellesley magazine, Chu reminisced about
her early months at the College, "far from home, in a world
full of tall strangers and inedible food." Although she "loved
the ice cream," she was able to tolerate little else that was
served. Salads, for example, had never been on the table in China,
and cheese was "all but unknown . . . . "The proportion
[of a Chinese meal] was exactly opposite from that in an American
meal," she explained in the Wellesley article. "Instead
of eating meat, a little starch and fewer vegetables, . . . our
meals were mostly starch, in the form of rice, with a good helping
of vegetables and very little meat. Since we had no ovens in China,
everything was cooked on top of the stove. " Although Chu had
never cooked before, she began trying to replicate Chinese home
cooking on a hot plate in Pomeroy in an effort to cure her unrelenting
homesickness.
In the 1920s, the variety of foods available in the entire Boston
area was only a fraction of what can be found in the town of Wellesley
now. Chu’s staples were rice, cooking oil, salt, sugar, and vinegar,
all of which she could easily obtain. She bought soy sauce and dried
shrimp in Boston’s then minuscule Chinatown. "I had three major
limitations," she remembered in 1982. "I had very little
money to spend; I had no means of refrigeration and had to buy everything
just before I cooked it; and I couldn’t create exotic odors that
would offend the girls in the dormitory whose idea of a foreign
spice was an onion."
Following her graduate work for the HPE certificate, Chu returned
to China and taught physical education at the McTyeire School and
at Ginling College in Nanjing. In 1928, she married Chu Shi-ming,
an army officer and official in the Nationalist Government, who
eventually became a general in the Nationalist army. (She had met
him when he was studying military science at M.I.T. ) From 1935
to 1947, she was a vice president of the world Young Women’s Christian
Association (YWCA), and she was adviser to the women athletes of
China in the 1936 Olympics.
Chu’s
husband was posted as a military attaché to the Chinese Embassy
in Washington, D.C. in 1941. There, according to her obituary in
The New York Times, "Mrs. Chu took on the entertaining
duties that transformed her into an ambassador for Chinese food."
She returned to China after World War II but in 1950 began permanent
residency in the United States. She became a US citizen in 1955.
Based in Manhattan, Grace Zia Chu taught cooking for the next thirty
years in an array of venues that included radio, television, and
appearances in cities around the United States and Europe. While
her cookbooks include some recipes for complex dishes, she is best
known for her ability to encourage beginners. For example:
Chinese Stir-Fry Spinach
1 pound fresh spinach, or 1 10-ounce package prewashed
spinach
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
- Wash the spinach in a large basin of cold water. Rinse carefully
so that all the sand is eliminated. Drain and pat dry.
- Heat the oil for a few seconds in a 12-inch Chinese wok or frying
pan. Add the spinach by large handfuls to prevent the oil from
spattering. Mix with chopsticks or spatula to let the oil cover
all the leaves.
- Cook until the leaves of the spinach are all wilted. Sprinkle
with salt and sugar and mix well.
- Serve at room temperature.
Alongside her love for Chinese cooking, Chu developed an abiding
interest in Asian arts and crafts. In 1953, she operated a shop,
Madam Chu Gifts, north of Sarasota, Florida. Later, she co-authored
three books on the subject: Oriental Antiques and Collectibles:
A Guide" (1973); Oriental Cloisonné and Other
Enamels" (1978); and The Collector’s Book of Jade"
(1978).
Chu moved to Columbus, Ohio in 1986, to be near her sister and
her son. She lived to be 99 years old.
Written by Sally Linden
|