After yesterday's grueling schedule, we have the morning free. I decide to take a walk. Crossing the canal that runs through the Campus, I pass the Mao statue.

   

    After some trouble, I find the exit from ECNU and enter the local neighborhood. Lots of construction & mud. I proceed to a canal and turn left into a neighborhood of blocks of flats and small (some very small) shops. Lots of activity. I come to a bridge over the canal (both bridge & canal are filthy) and see a market on the other side. The market is amazing & it is clear that I am a novelty. Everyone was very nice & the produce was fresh--20 kinds of eggs; fresh chicken, duck or quail; amazing variety of fish (that's cuttlefish in front) and vegetables.

       

    I am running late coming back from the market and try to take a shortcut through a housing project. I run into a wall with no gate. People are starting to look at me a little strangely. Clearly, I don't belong here!. Fortunately, I spy a woman coming home with her groceries in a cab. I approach the cab. The driver is suspicious, but I give him the Hotel's card. He looks at both the card and me very carefully and then motions for me to get in. Whew, was I relieved. It was one of the best 10 RMB that I spent.

    Our delegation goes to lunch in the second floor, sit down restaurant at ECNU's student union. Ann Huss (somewhat ambulatory, but with sever back pain) and Julia (a lovely graduate student at ECNU who served as our guide and translator) order. The food is delicious. I ask for the bath room and am told to wait. The bathroom is filthy and only for staff use. When someone says that, it is definitely better to wait.

    Back at the hotel, we are met by Mr. Wu of the Chemistry Department who is our host. He takes us to the old section of Shanghai (there are few left).

    The area is a maze of hutongs (Chinese alleys) filled with shops. Our group of academics became shopping crazed and began stocking up on gifts (paper dragons, tea shirts, tea, tea pots). One of the nicest shops was a small tea  shop. We entered and sat at a small table made out of a tree trunk.

   

    The salesman served us many teas in the traditional style. The teapots and cups are small and one savors each drop of tea, rather like a wine tasting.

    On to the Ming Dynasty Yu Yuan Garden. It is one of the oldest remaining areas in Shanghai. It is said to have survived the cultural revolution (centered in Shanghai) because there was a meeting held hear to found the Chinese Communist Party. The Garden is stunning! Many of the photos below are from an excellent site on Chinese architecture.

           

    We wander out of the garden at closing time and wander through the shops. Finally, we emerge at a zigzag bridge (very popular design in China) that leads to the Hu Xin Ting (Lake Center Pavilion) teahouse. One can sit on the second floor, sip delicious tea and see both Yu Yuan Garden and the busy commercial area of the old city.

    We exit the teahouse and find the Lubolang restaurant. We have an elegant meal including asparagus with lotus, which is ethereal. Here is Beth Hennessy, Barbara Beatty and Winifred Wood in front of the Lubolang.

 You would think that by this time we would call it a day. No! We decide to walk to Nanjing Lu (Road) to check out the shops (shops are open late in Shanghai). We wind up at the Silk King, one of the best tailor shops in Shanghai. Beth was fitted for a cheongsam (traditional Chinese silk dress), Barbara for a couple of silk jackets, Winifred for a silk jacket and pants and I for a pair of pants. Exhausted we pour ourselves into a cab and head back to the hotel.

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(c)Ann Witte AWitte@Wellesley.edu
Department of Economics
Date Created: February 9, 2004
Last Modified:  February 21, 2004

Expires: January 31, 2008